Day 4: Patna
Next we flew from Delhi to Patna Sahib in the province of Bihar (see map). In the airport, we found out you are only allowed inside if you have a flight, and they check your ID to go in (but not for getting onto the plane which was quite different). There were separate lines for female security where you are checked thoroughly behind a curtain instead of out in public, again quite different than Canadian security. Your boarding card gets stamped as you go through security, and all your bags need written tags even the carry-ons. Then you need your boarding card to get off the plane as well! Exiting the airport, we were swarmed by 15 or 20 taxi drivers who wanted to give us a ride. We hired some drivers for the day. Patna has a population of 2 million.
TAKHT SRI HARMANDIRJI, PATNA SAHIB
This is where Guru Gobind Singh Ji was born and the first of the Takhts we visited. During Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s first Udasi, this was the haveli of Salis Rai Jouri. Guru Ji made this the first Manji, place to spread the Parchar of Sikhi. Guru Teg Bahadur Ji also came here in 1722. The Gurdwara Sahib was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh and unfortunately had to be re-constructed due to fire and then an earthquake.
This Chola Sahib belonged to Guru Gobind Singh Ji and was worn at the age of 15. It had been with a family in Pakistan who had been taking care of it until the mother passed away. Then the daughter took over care of the Chola Sahib and gave it over so that it could be seen by all at Takht Sri HarmandirJi.
This is Mata Ji's Khoo (well). It is blocked off on top so no one falls in.
GURU KA BAAG
When Guru Teg Bahadur Ji heard of the news of his son’s birth, Guru Ji had been away doing important work in Assam. When Guru Ji returned to Patna he stayed in a dried bagh (garden) where he met Gobind Rai at the age of four. The garden then became lush, and the Nawab who owned it was so surprised at the miracle that he gifted it to Guru Ji. The Gurdwara Sahib has Thadha Sahib (where Guru Ji sat), old well, and dried stump of Imli tree where sangat met Guru Ji.
Kara of Guru Teg Bahadur Ji. Ours look very small comparatively now.
This well actually works to bring up water
GURDWARA GOU GHAT SAHIB
A ghat is a place on the bank for bathing or harboring boats.This was Bhagat Jaitmal’s house, who was a 350 year old Bhagat visited by Guru Nanak Dev Ji. He asked Guru Ji for Mukhti, but he was advised to wait until the 9thGuru’s blessings. At that time he was too old to bathe in the Ganga, thus Guru Ji asked him to make a pond and that the Ganga would come bathe him, in the form of a cow. When Guru Teg Bahadur Ji arrived, the doors of the house were closed as the children’s noises offten bothered Bhagat Ji in worship. One window was open where the sangat called the Bahagt to advise him Guru Ji arrived. Bhagat Ji said if he has, then he doesn’t need to open the door. Then Guru Ji rode on his horse and went through the window itself, tying his horse with a rope and sitting where Guru Nanak Dev Ji sat. Jaitamal then got Mukhti. Guru Ji stayed for four months. At that time, Aurangzeb ordered King Bishan Singh to leave for Assam who sought Guru Ji’s help to go to Assam with him. Guru Ji said he needed to get the house constructed first. There was an unequal pair of wood (thumms) brought for construction which was slowing construction. The laborers complained that they were too short to fix the roof, but the next day Guru Ji said they weren’t short. As the laborers tried to fix them, they became long. When they were put into the earth, they became short again. Guru Ji asked them to leave the construction incomplete because there would be a time in the future that the sangat would finish it.
In this Gurdwara there is the chakki of Mata Gujri Ji, window of the house of Jaitamal, Thara Sahib where Guru Teg Bahadur Sat, and the tree where Guru Ji tied his horse.
This is the tree where Guru Ji tied his horse.
This is where Ganga came to Jaitamal in the form of a cow.
These are the Thumm Sahib.
Chakki of Mata Ji
GURDWARA KANGAN GHAT SAHIB
Young Gobind Rai used to play here. He threw his gold kara into the Ganga here (to show renounciation of wordly affairs/maya), which has now receded back. Guru Ji also blessed mental peace to Pandit Shiv Dutt here. They are constructing a new Gurdwara Sahib here.
The Ganga has receded to here.
GURDWARA BAL LEELA MAINEE
We then took an “auto” (like a rickshaw but its an electric scooter in the front and seats many people) to Bal Leela Gurdwara Sahib. This is the history written outside the Gurdwara "When Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji was a young boy he used to play in the palace of Raja Fateh Chand Maini. Everydat the Queen Rani Vishambra Devi Ji of Raja Fateh Chand used to wish for a son as innocent, naive, pure and simple as Guru. Being omniscient one day while playing Guru Ji went and sat down in Queen's lap and said that he was her son. Queen's eyes filled with tears and told Guru Ji about her wish to have a son like him. Guru Ji replied that he was the only one like himself in the whole world, so she can consider him as her son. Guru Ji and his firends while playing felt hungry and asked the Queen for something to eat. So the Indian meal of purs, black grams and halwah (karah) which was being cooked in the royal kitchen was served the same, after some time when Guru Ji was about to go to Sri Anandpur Sahib, Queen implored him to stay. Guru Ji asked the Queen to serve children with the same food he had eaten at her apalce and added that he will be present wherever there will be children. History tells us that Guru Ji used to brush his teeth using the stem of cranberry tree. Once after bushing his teeth Guru Ji planted that stem and blessed it to become a tree which will remain green till the end of time. That tree till today is green and flourishing in the backyard of Gurdwara Sahib. People who are childhless visit this place and partake of the fruit of the cranberry tree after praying, their wishes are all fuflilled. Everyone who comes to pray here is served food and shelter round the clock with all dedication and humblesness..."
The couple treated Gobind Rai as their own son and donated their property to him. Gobind Rai told his mother he gained another mother, and Mata Gujri asked “then how will one son play in two laps”, Gobind Rai replied “Just as one moon is visible in two ponds at the same time” (source Sikhiwiki).
The new Yatri Niwas (saran).
We went back to the Takht for Aarti and stayed in the Saran there. A saran is a place within the Gurdwara complex that is a place to live for people visiting and have basic amenities like a bed and bathroom. Whether there is hot water, AC, shower (vs bucket), blankets, garbage can, or toilet paper varies. They either charge a minimal fee or it is free depending on the specific saran. It was amazing to be able to stay in the proximity of the Takht.
Day 5
We listened to Asa Di Waar at 330 am and spent the morning at the Takht. It was a very special time to enjoy time at the Gurdwara sahib as it was peaceful. There were monkeys fighting all night which I actually thought were birds chirping. They were all over the Gurdwara Sahib saran and apparently can be quite aggressive so we were careful when we took pictures of them!
Next we went to the airport for our flight to Delhi so we could go to Hazur Sahib. Our flight was “Indigo” with an all female crew and pilot which was really cool. We were all sad to leave because it had been such a profoundly peaceful experience.
Life in Patna:
Handpainted murals were along a large part of town
References
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