Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 10: Lahore

I wrote this post a while ago but got busy and didn't get to put it up until now. This is a continuation of our trip.

Day 14 

GURDWARA JANAMASTHAN BEBE NANAKI

This town’s name is Dera Chahal in Lahore District. This is where Bebe Nanaki was born. Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited when he used to visit his Nanke (maternal grandparents). This Gurdwara Sahib was destroyed in 1947 during the partition, and was reconstructed in 1966 when the Prime Minister dedicated half a million dollars for its repair. I read the shabad “Koan jane gun tere” here. We did ardas and took the Hukamnama, Ang 679 “Ja Ko Har Rang Lago Is Jug Mein.” 

GURDWARA DERA SAHIB, GURU ARJAN SHAHEEDI ISTHAN

This Gurdwara Sahib is where Guru Arjan Dev Ji was Shaheed. Guru Ji was tortured on a hot plate, with hot sand pouring over his body, and boiled in hot water, and finally merged with God when walking into the Ravi river. The Gurdwara Sahib sits across from the Shahi Masjid, and at that time the river had flowed along the wall of fort. Guru Hargobind Sahib got a Thara Sahib (platform) built at the spot of the martyrdom, then Maharaja Ranjit Singh built a Gurdwara. The spot where the Guru Granth Sahib is located, is where the final rites of Maharaja Ranjit Singh were formed. The hall was built in 1909. In 1925, during the Gurdwara Reform movement a committee served until the Shiromani Committee took over in 1927. It was rebuilt in 1934. 

When we arrived, Bhai Mardana’s 18th generation was doing kirtan there! It was an amazing experience. Although the whole trip was full of many Gurdwara Sahibs where I felt a profound sense of peace, this Gurdwara Sahib held something special in my heart. When I stepped inside, I was just blown away by the deep feeling of connection. Sitting in the sangat, I felt like I could live there forever and didn't need anything else. I read the Shabad “Tera Kiya Meetha Laage", Guru Jis own shabad at the time of shaheedi. Then we did ardas and took the Hukamnama Ang 745 “Jin Mohe Brehmand.” The Gyani Ji told us that God called us here, otherwise we would not be so lucky to sit in Sangat, altogether, from so far away. I wondered how was it that I came here, from halfway around the world, a girl from Prince George, to the spot of Guru Arjan Dev Ji’s shaheedi in Pakistan, and got to do kirtan of Guru Ji’s own shabad hundreds of years later. This is only written by God and I am so appreciative. I wish everyone could be blessed to have this experience since it transcends so many emotions and words. The tears were flowing and just wouldn’t end, because it felt like what I had been looking for for so long was right there inside me. Even now I wish I could go back again. 

Place of Guru Ji's Shaheedi.

That evening went shopping in the Anarkali Bazaar. The prices are way cheaper than anything I had ever seen. 

Day 15

We went again to Sian Mian Mir’s Durgah, to donate Chadhars. 

GURDWARA PATSHAHI CHHEVIN MUZANG

Jahangir handed over Chandu to Guru Hargobind Sahib here for punishment in 1619, as he had been responsible for the torture and martyrdom of Guru Arjan Dev Ji. Guru Hargobind Sahib also stopped here when he freed the daughter of a Qazi, Bibi Kaulan and asked her to ride his horse. In in the same trip, Guru Ji made the Thara Sahib at present day Gurdwara Dera Sahib (above). Maharaja Ranjit singh built a Gurdwara Sahib here, then in 1926 S. Mehar Singh made the current hall which was taken over by the SGPC in 1927 until partition. There was no Parkash here when we visited, but there is an Akhand Paath on the birth of Guru Arjan Dev Ji yearly.  

 

SHAHI QILLA 

Next we went to visit the Lahore fort (Shahi Killa, Royal Fort) but due to a shortage of time, it was a limited tour. This was occupied by the Mughals from 1519-1767, then the Sikhs until 1849 (during Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s rule), and finally the British from 1849 to partition in 1947. We had a tour of the inner museum. We ran into some local college girls who came to meet us while we were there and they were so happy to meet us and chat. They were very welcoming and were interested in where we came from and how we came to visit Lahore. We got to see some of the old paintings and weapons from the time of the Sikh rule.  

Below is Maharani Jind Kaur's Residence 

Painting of Maharjani Jind Kaur 

The next three photos were taken by Inderjot Singh (Surrey) who was on the tour with us: 

We went back to Gurdwara Dera Sahib to eat langar. Then we went on a bus tour of Lahore and saw a water show in Iqbal Park. Lahore certainly is modern and gorgeous. We went to go eat at a restaurant in the evening.

Minar-e-Pakistan

 

Iqbal Park

Thus ended our trip to Pakistan. It was really hard for all of us to leave as we had a blast and enjoyed being able to see these historic Gurdwaras. I highly encourage you to visit in a jatha with Bhai Mohanjit Singh as it is all pre-organized and safe to travel. It was fun meeting the other Canadian families as well. There is also a great opportunity to donate your daswand here as you know directly where your money is going- for example you can go buy the items directly and donate them. There is significant work being done on reconstructing the damaged Gurdwaras as well and it was great to see the work done on behalf of the sangat. Next we travelled back on a road trip in India, stay tuned. 

References 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahore_Fort

https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-dehra-sahib-sri-guru-arjan-dev-ji-lahore

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Dehra_Sahib_Sri_Guru_Arjan_Dev

http://www.sikhtourism.com/pakistan-gurudwara.htm

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_janam_asthan_bebe_nanaki.html

https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-chhevin-patshahi-mozang-lahore

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Patshahi_Chhevin_Muzang

https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-janamasthan-bebe-nanaki-at-dera-chahal-distt-lahore