Friday, July 26, 2019

Dukh Bhanjan Tera Naam Ji

I headed to Brampton a few weeks ago to attend the Dukh Bhanjan Tera Naam Ji camp and to learn the rabab. It was a great time to reflect on life, as I have achieved some of the life goals that I had written on my bedroom wall: doing Darshan of the 5 Takhts, getting halfway through my Sehaj Paath of the Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, furthering my spiritual path (path of liv), and being in the final year of my program. While I was gone, I came up with some new goals and expanded ideas of things I was excited about. I think it is vital to continue to have this direction. Often times people wait around as their goals get stale, lose interest and never achieve them. It is important for our goals to remind us of our key values and goals in life, as well as keep us invigorated. My cousins and I set some of our goals together which was also fun. 

I took lessons in Rabab while I was visiting. The Rabab existed before the times of Bhai Mardana, however the Sikh rabab is a modification and has no frets, making it perfect for singing kirtan (read more about this in the post Sikh Saaj). One of the things I got told by various people (none of whom knew how to play the rabab), was that it would be very difficult for me to learn. My Massi Ji incidentally saw someone carrying a traditional Saaj at Turban Up in Toronto and asked who their teacher was, which led to the discovery of my teacher. I had trusted one year ago when I bought my rabab that through God’s will, this part would also come together and it did. I have met many teachers over the years both inside and outside of school. Not everyone has the same skillset, will mesh with you, understand you or even really like teaching. Yet some have an absolute passion to share what they learn with others and to pass that on to the next generation. Bhai Gurcharan Singh Ji from Singapore played an enormous role in my life introducing me to Raag kirtan when I was 14. Although it had been difficult at the time, his humbleness and dedication was a key feature of his teaching and made it worthwhile. I was so grateful that my rabab teacher had the same passion. When I was searching for a teacher, I realized that not a lot of people even understand the need or desire to revive how kirtan was originally played by Bhai Mardana Ji with Guru Nanak Dev Ji. Of course learning anything presents a challenge, but when you love something you give it time and dedication. It was not as much of a hurdle as I had been told or expected. On top of that, I didn’t just gain a teacher but I gained new sangat as well. Learning our traditional saaj is a great hobby for anyone to pick up, of any age. I would recommend being very mindful of where you buy your instrument and make sure to ask someone who has knowledge of the instruments before making your purchase.  

I got to listen to traditional saaj being played in Aasa Di Waar for a few hours at Gurfateh Sewa Center. Initially I thought it was just a bookstore but I learned that once a month Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji is brought for a program. Sometimes different groups such as seniors from the retirement homes or non-Sikh groups are brought in. Those that owned the store weren’t earning from it and were providing an amazing sewa of connecting people with education on all topics, ordering musical instruments and other religious items. They also advocated and got Giani Gulzar Singh Ji to go to the jail to do rehabilitation and connect Sikh inmates to their roots. Imagine if people at every Gurdwara spent that time for more advocacy and proactiveness in outreach to at-risk Sikh youth. I found it to be really inspiring and it is worth a visit. 

The Dukh Bhanjan Tera Naam Ji camp is very similar to Sarab Rog Ka Aukhad Naam which I have written about in the past. We attended the camp for four days. On the last day I got to speak about the life-transforming experience I had attending these camps since 2016. The biggest thing I gained was bharosa (faith). People don’t think they should go because they don’t have anything wrong with them (rog or disease), but even if you don’t have a physical, mental illness, or stress, we may have diseases that we are unaware of in our body. If we don’t have any problems whatsoever, then we should go to thank God, and to address our biggest disease of ego. I found that each time I go, I find I have more faith and connection, and it convinces me more of the power of Gurbani. The more people attend, the more benefit as you sing the Gurbani collectively. The Dukh Bhanjan Tera Naam Ji camp will be coming to our Gurdwara Sahib in Prince George in September in the third week- I will post dates once they are confirmed. It would be great for people to attend with their families. Again even if you have no rog- we all need to address the rog of Ego. 

We attended Simran programs and katha. We also attended the AKJ (Akhand Keertani Jatha) Smagam and another program of famous Raagi Jathas from India.

I always seem to find a lot of spiritual fulfillment from these trips. It was about finally having some people around who were seeking the same purpose, made me feel understood and also challenged myself to be a better version of myself. I am so appreciative of the experience sitting in sangat and gratitude for cousins who are invested in singing shabads together. There is definitely a hunger for that type of sangat, because it is difficult in a smaller town when there aren’t many people around at the Gurdwara. I am finding despite having an increasing population of Sikhs in our town, we seem to have less and less individuals attending Akhand Paaths or just normal Sunday programs. At the AKJ smagam I attended, the Gurdwara Sahib was packed and almost everyone was singing! The teenagers who are normally video gaming are also singing and engaged. The impact was enormous. It wasn’t just that people physically attend but they were also mentally present and participating. That felt like home to me- to forget your body and where you are physically, to look inside yourself and listen to Naam. I do struggle when I come back. We are very lucky here locally that we have a small community to be able to hold initiatives and make big changes, we don’t have traffic and live close to nature, we can sing kirtan on stage, etc. and it is great for family living. I think sometimes though it can be isolating and lonely when there isn’t sangat around that is discussing Sikhi to expand our own views. Some people are stuck at the same thoughts and level they were for most of their life because there’s no one to challenge them or bounce off ideas. I’ve learned a lot even talking about topics I thought I knew something about and I think its useful to just be around people who you can gain that knowledge from. In a matter of seconds our life can change by new sangat- it can kill us or give us a whole new life. Let's make us of as many opportunities as we can to engage with others who help us further our path. 

Thursday, July 25, 2019

Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 11: Back To India

This is a continuation of our yatra. From Pakistan we went back over to India at the Wagah border. 

Day 16 
In the morning we went across the border again to India. We reconvened with our fellow travellers. We rented out a Tempo Traveller and got a driver to take us on a tour of the rest of the Gurdwaras.


GURDWARA BIR BABA BUDDHA SAHIB
This Gurdwara Sahib is just outside Amritsar and remembers Baba Buddha Ji. When Mata Ganga Ji, wife of Guru Arjan Dev Ji wanted a child, Guru Ji suggested she visit Baba Buddha Ji for blessings. Mata Ji had food prepared by others and visited, but Baba Ji refused to accept the food. When she prepared the meal herself, he accepted and smashed an onion to tell her that her son (Guru Hargobind Sahib) would be a warrior who crushed the heads of his enemies as he had crushed the onion. Thus she was blessed with a son. This Gurdwara Sahib is where this event took place and they still serve onions. The Gurdwara Sahib was build by Baba Kharak Singh. A bir means a forest for cattle grazing. Baba ji looked after a bir offered to Guru Arjan Dev Ji by Chaudhari Langah. 

GURDWARA SRI JANAM ASTHAAN GURU AMARDAS JI
This is in Basarke on the way to Amritsar. It is the birthplace of Guru Amardas Ji. This Gurdwara Sahib was very quiet and peaceful. 

GURDWARA BIBI AMRO JI 
This Gurdwara Sahib was right next to Gurdwara Sri Janamasthan Guru Amardas Ji. It was Bibi Amro’s singing of Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s bani that led (Guru) Amardas to give up his trip to the Ganga and instead went to go serve Guru Angad Dev Ji for 12 years. 
 

GURDWARA SRI SANH (pronounced SUN) SAHIB
This is also in Basarke (pronounced Baa-sr-kay). After Guru Amardas Ji was named successor, Datu, the son of Guru Angad Dev Ji forced Guru Amardas Ji out of Goindwal. In fact, he kicked Guru Ji off his seat onto the floor but the humble Guru Ji only rubbed Datu’s foot saying “I am old and my bones have grown very hard, I fear they have hurt your tender foot.” Guru Amardas Ji returned to Basarke and closed himself in a hut with a note that “He who opens this door is no Sikh of mine, nor I am his Guru.” A group of Sikhs led by Baba Buddha Ji arrived, and finally Baba Ji made a hole in the wall to ask Guru Ji to return. This hole is still there. 

GURDWARA CHEHARTA SAHIB (pronounced Sheh-herta= 6 wheeled well)
This Gurdwara is also near Amritsar, near Guru Ki Wadali village which is the birthplace of Guru Hargobind Sahib. In celebration of his birth, Guru Arjan Dev Ji made a large well with 6 persian wheels which helped to serve to green the fields in this area. 

Driving to Pingalwara we passed this College:

PINGALWARA
We next visited the Amritsar branch of Pingalwara (See post History of Pingalwara for more details). Pingalwara was founded by Bhagat Puran Singh and means “home of the crippled.” This is a care facility for those with physical or mental health conditions, orphans, and those abandoned, impoverished, or abused. We got to see their museum and get a tour of their facilities. Unfortunately Dr. Inderjit Kaur who currently runs Pingalwara wasn’t there but we got to meet others from there, including a young man who had himself grown up in Pingalwara and now worked there. I had saved up my money from my very first paycheck in residency and got to hand deliver it. It was inspiring to get to meet the patients and to know that it was making a difference. 

GURDWARA SRI SHAHEED GANJ BABA DEEP SINGH
We went back to this Gurdwara Sahib as the last time we had went the line had been too long to matha tek. 

The system for Parshad for Gurdwaras in India is also different than Canada. You go and get a parchi (give a donation and get a piece of paper), and then go get some degh, which then gets mixed in with the degh for the bhog. Then you are given it as a blessing to eat. The degh comes in little containers made out of leaves. The reasoning is so that it is accountable where the donations go, and because then people know they are getting degh from the Gurdwara Sahib itself (there were signs at many places not to take parshad from any strangers). 

After a long day we stayed at the Hyatt hotel for the night. Stay tuned for the next part where we travelled to Taran Taaran. 

References 
Google Maps

Monday, July 15, 2019

Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 10: Lahore

I wrote this post a while ago but got busy and didn't get to put it up until now. This is a continuation of our trip.

Day 14 
GURDWARA JANAMASTHAN BEBE NANAKI
This town’s name is Dera Chahal in Lahore District. This is where Bebe Nanaki was born. Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited when he used to visit his Nanke (maternal grandparents). This Gurdwara Sahib was destroyed in 1947 during the partition, and was reconstructed in 1966 when the Prime Minister dedicated half a million dollars for its repair. I read the shabad “Koan jane gun tere” here. We did ardas and took the Hukamnama, Ang 679 “Ja Ko Har Rang Lago Is Jug Mein.” 


GURDWARA DERA SAHIB, GURU ARJAN SHAHEEDI ISTHAN
This Gurdwara Sahib is where Guru Arjan Dev Ji was Shaheed. Guru Ji was tortured on a hot plate, with hot sand pouring over his body, and boiled in hot water, and finally merged with God when walking into the Ravi river. The Gurdwara Sahib sits across from the Shahi Masjid, and at that time the river had flowed along the wall of fort. Guru Hargobind Sahib got a Thara Sahib (platform) built at the spot of the martyrdom, then Maharaja Ranjit Singh built a Gurdwara. The spot where the Guru Granth Sahib is located, is where the final rites of Maharaja Ranjit Singh were formed. The hall was built in 1909. In 1925, during the Gurdwara Reform movement a committee served until the Shiromani Committee took over in 1927. It was rebuilt in 1934. 

When we arrived, Bhai Mardana’s 18th generation was doing kirtan there! It was an amazing experience. Although the whole trip was full of many Gurdwara Sahibs where I felt a profound sense of peace, this Gurdwara Sahib held something special in my heart. When I stepped inside, I was just blown away by the deep feeling of connection. Sitting in the sangat, I felt like I could live there forever and didn't need anything else. I read the Shabad “Tera Kiya Meetha Laage", Guru Jis own shabad at the time of shaheedi. Then we did ardas and took the Hukamnama Ang 745 “Jin Mohe Brehmand.” The Gyani Ji told us that God called us here, otherwise we would not be so lucky to sit in Sangat, altogether, from so far away. I wondered how was it that I came here, from halfway around the world, a girl from Prince George, to the spot of Guru Arjan Dev Ji’s shaheedi in Pakistan, and got to do kirtan of Guru Ji’s own shabad hundreds of years later. This is only written by God and I am so appreciative. I wish everyone could be blessed to have this experience since it transcends so many emotions and words. The tears were flowing and just wouldn’t end, because it felt like what I had been looking for for so long was right there inside me. Even now I wish I could go back again. 


Place of Guru Ji's Shaheedi.

That evening went shopping in the Anarkali Bazaar. The prices are way cheaper than anything I had ever seen. 

Day 15
We went again to Sian Mian Mir’s Durgah, to donate Chadhars. 

GURDWARA PATSHAHI CHHEVIN MUZANG
Jahangir handed over Chandu to Guru Hargobind Sahib here for punishment in 1619, as he had been responsible for the torture and martyrdom of Guru Arjan Dev Ji. Guru Hargobind Sahib also stopped here when he freed the daughter of a Qazi, Bibi Kaulan and asked her to ride his horse. In in the same trip, Guru Ji made the Thara Sahib at present day Gurdwara Dera Sahib (above). Maharaja Ranjit singh built a Gurdwara Sahib here, then in 1926 S. Mehar Singh made the current hall which was taken over by the SGPC in 1927 until partition. There was no Parkash here when we visited, but there is an Akhand Paath on the birth of Guru Arjan Dev Ji yearly.  
 

SHAHI QILLA 
Next we went to visit the Lahore fort (Shahi Killa, Royal Fort) but due to a shortage of time, it was a limited tour. This was occupied by the Mughals from 1519-1767, then the Sikhs until 1849 (during Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s rule), and finally the British from 1849 to partition in 1947. We had a tour of the inner museum. We ran into some local college girls who came to meet us while we were there and they were so happy to meet us and chat. They were very welcoming and were interested in where we came from and how we came to visit Lahore. We got to see some of the old paintings and weapons from the time of the Sikh rule.  
Below is Maharani Jind Kaur's Residence 
Painting of Maharjani Jind Kaur 
The next three photos were taken by Inderjot Singh (Surrey) who was on the tour with us: 

We went back to Gurdwara Dera Sahib to eat langar. Then we went on a bus tour of Lahore and saw a water show in Iqbal Park. Lahore certainly is modern and gorgeous. We went to go eat at a restaurant in the evening.

Minar-e-Pakistan
 

Iqbal Park

Thus ended our trip to Pakistan. It was really hard for all of us to leave as we had a blast and enjoyed being able to see these historic Gurdwaras. I highly encourage you to visit in a jatha with Bhai Mohanjit Singh as it is all pre-organized and safe to travel. It was fun meeting the other Canadian families as well. There is also a great opportunity to donate your daswand here as you know directly where your money is going- for example you can go buy the items directly and donate them. There is significant work being done on reconstructing the damaged Gurdwaras as well and it was great to see the work done on behalf of the sangat. Next we travelled back on a road trip in India, stay tuned. 

References 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahore_Fort
https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-dehra-sahib-sri-guru-arjan-dev-ji-lahore
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Dehra_Sahib_Sri_Guru_Arjan_Dev
http://www.sikhtourism.com/pakistan-gurudwara.htm
http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_janam_asthan_bebe_nanaki.html
https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-chhevin-patshahi-mozang-lahore
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Patshahi_Chhevin_Muzang