Sunday, May 5, 2019

Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 3: Nanded

Once we landed in Nanded, we took a bus from the airport to Takht Sri Hazur Sahib. Actually everyone who on the plane was headed to the Takht. Once we arrived, there was red color everywhere! Holla Mohalla had just been celebrated so it was extremely busy. Every saran said they didn’t have any room and night was rapidly approaching. People were starting to just settle down on the streets with all their luggage as there was nowhere to go. With the heat and the crowds it was also hard to get around. Finally with some requesting and some help from a friend, we found a room at Sant Baba Nidhan Singh’s saran. All eight of us stayed in a room and we were so appreciative to have a roof over our heads! There time to matha tek before the Sukhasan so we ate langar and went to sleep. 

Day 6

TAKHT SRI HAZUR SAHIB
The next day we went to Takht Sri Hazur Sahib. This is where Guru Gobind Singh Ji became jyoti jot (merged with the supreme light). Guru Ji camped here and installed Guru Granth Sahib Ji. Guru Ji named Nanded “Abchalnagar” translated as “steadfast city.” Maharaja Ranjit Singh Ji constructed the Takht, which was later taken over by Udaasis and then taken back by the Sikhs in the late 1800s. 

Gates:
Gurdwara Sahib: 
Packed crowds:
Since I wasn't allowed to take pictures inside, here is one from the internet (reference below)





















GURDWARA SANGAT SAHIB
Sangat has been present in Nanded since the time of Guru Nanak Dev Jis visit. Guru Gobind Singh Ji stayed here upon coming to Nanded. There was a treasure found at Maltekari (read below), which was then brought here to distribute in shieldfuls to the Sikh warriors. The rest that remained was re-buried. That shield is kept at this Gurdwara Sahib. The treasure found at Maltekari (read below) was brought here to distribute amongst the Sikh warriors. The part that remained was buried where it was found. 
GURDWARA SHIKAR GHAT
Bhai Mula was a devotee of Guru Nanak that accompanied him on his travlels. One time, he avoided Guru Ji so as to not go on a long journey. Guru Ji left but Mula died of a snakebite, and he was reincarnated into different forms. Finally in the form of a rabbit, Guru Gobind Singh Ji gave him mukhti by shooting the rabbit with his arrow. 
GURDWARA MATA JITO JI
This is a Gurdwara honouring the wife of Guru Gobind Singh Ji, Mata Jito Ji. 
 

GURDWARA MATA SAHIB DIVAN
Mata Sahib Divan had previously meditated at this site, and when Guru Gobind Singh Ji came to Nanded, she returned to meditate here. She started langar and then was tasked with leaving for Delhi.  

GURDWARA HEERA GHAT SAHIB
This Gurdwara is on the bank of the Godavari River. This is where Bahadur Shah presented a diamond to Guru Gobind Singh Ji, who threw it into the river. When he looked, there were heaps of diamonds in the river, teaching him that these worldly gifts are not temping to a Sikh.
 
GURDWARA MALTKERI SAHIB (pronounced Malt-ekadi)
Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited here in 1512 when Muslim saint Sayyad Shah Hussain lived here (aka Lakad Shah Fakir). His grave is behind the Gurdwara Sahib. He was in deep meditation in a hut and prayed to Guru Ji that “I have heard I have heard that you are a true representative of the Lord and redeem the strayed. I cannot reach you as I am unable to walk even; I have no sight in my eyes. People say that you can reach the hearts of others. If so, please do understand my feelings and come and redeem me without further delay” (sikhiwiki). Guru Ji arrived and the Fakir fell at Guru Ji’s feet "O Great One, I am emancipated by your effulgent presence, hearing my prayers, this hut is blessed by your presence” (sikhiwiki). Guru Ji then told him this place would be known world over and it must be kept clean, and that money buried at this location would later be needed by Guru Ji’s successor for his followers, so the Fakir must wait until that time. The Fakir lived until Guru Gobind Singh Ji’s arrival when he gave over the buried money, that Guru Ji distributed to his army (see Gurdwara Sangat Sahib history above). The Gurdwara Sahib was demolished by Muslims in 1928 and rebuilt in 1930. 



BAOLI AT DAMDAMA SAHIB
There is a Boali sahib here where people bathe. When Maharaja Ranjit Singh Ji did the sewa of making the Takht, the Baoli Sahib was made first. It is called "Meethi (sweet)" Boali. 
 
This horse is kept as Guru Jis horse 

GURDWARA BANDHA GHAT
This Gurdwara Sahib is also on the bank of the Godavari, and is where Madho Das lived. Guru Ji met him here and he became Bandha Singh Bahadur (see post on Bandha Singh Bahadur for more details). 

GURDWARA NAGINA GHAT SAHIB
This Gurdwara Sahib is also on the bank of the Godavari river. Guru Gobind Singh Ji sat on the bank of the river when a devotee came and presented a Nagina (pearl) that Guru Ji threw into the river. The vistor was upset Guru Ji threw his present into the river, but when Guru Ji told him to take it out of the river, the river was full of pearls. This Gurdwara’s history is very similar to Heera Ghat Sahib. 
 

GURDWARA LANGAR SAHIB
After the death of Aurangazeb, Prince Bahadur Shah asked Guru Gobind Singh Ji to help him in the battle for succession, promising to hand over anyone that had performed oppressive against against the Sikhs. After winning the throne, he turned back on his promise. Guru Ji continued to travel south with him, stopping in Nanded on the way. At present day Gurdwara Langar Sahib, Guru Ji cooked and served langar to his army. Guru Ji handed over the responsibility of Hazur Sahib to Bhai Santokh Singh Ji to continue langar. Over the years that service was no longer fulfilled as the sangat was busy in other duties. In 1912 Sant Baba Nidhan Singh was sitting on the railway platform to go to Punjab when during Simran Guru Ji gave him Darshan, sending him the message to return and start langar. As it was difficult to travel to Nanded, there wasn’t as much sangat. Baba ji asked where the money would come from for the langar, and Guru Ji told him "Khisa Mera Hath Tera." Langar now runs 24 hours there and we were blessed to be able to eat there, at the same location Guru Ji ran langar for his soldiers. 
 

Day 7
We went to the Takht again in the morning. 

MAI BHAGO TAP ASTHAN
This is next to Takht Sri Hazur Sahib and is the location where Mai Bhago used to meditate. It also housed the bandhookhs of Mai Bhago. Based on the size (these are mounted on horses or elephants), I would imagine Mai Bhago must have been a tall, large and strong warrior. They were over two times the size of my own height. 
 
Bandhookhs of Mai Bhago
Historical Shashtars 
Surprisingly even in 40 degree weather, walking on hot bricks with our bare feet somehow they did not blister or burn. We were so appreciative to do Darshan of these historical Gurdwaras. We went to Hazur Sahib in the evening and listened to Gurbani. We also were shown historical shashtars (weapons) from the times of Guru Ji. The lush greenery and peace of Nanded was extremely hard to leave behind. I felt like staying for a much longer time at Takht Sri Hazur Sahib, but we had to continue on with our journey. Stay tuned for the next part of our trip: Amritsar. 

Pictures of life in Nanded:
 

References 
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Langar_Sahib
http://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Bawli_Damdama_Sahib_(Nanded)
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurudwara_Shikar_Ghat_Sahib
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurudwara_Hira_Ghat_Sahib#External_links
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Mata_Sahib_(Nanded)
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Maltekri_Sahib
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurudwara_Sangat_Sahib_(Nanded)
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Banda_Ghat
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurudwara_Nagina_Ghat_Sahib
https://www.tripadvisor.ca/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g968669-d2460307-i219683113-Hazur_Sahib-Nanded_Nanded_District_Maharashtra.html
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Takhat_Sachkhand_Sri_Hazoor_Sahib 
https://www.facebook.com/Gurudwarasachkhandshrihazoorsahib/photos/a.601737476532376/1105133859526066/?type=3&theater 

Sunday, April 28, 2019

Parkash Divas Guru Angad Dev Ji

Today we celebrated the Parkash Divas of Guru Angad Dev Ji, our second Guru Ji. This week was actually the Parkash Divas of Guru Arjan Dev Ji and next week is Guru Angad Dev Ji, but I'm not sure why we had the schedule reversed at our Gurdwara Sahib.

Happy Parkash Divas! Guru Ji was born into a Hindu family to parents Bhai Pheru Mall Ji and Mata Sabhrai Ji with the name Bhai Lehna. He was a devout worshipper of Goddess Durga until he came across Bhai Jodha Ji singing the 21st Pauri from Asa Di Var. After hearing this, he decided he must meet Guru Nanak Dev Ji and went to go meet him in Kartarpur. From them he became a follower of Guru Nanak. After many tests and years of service, Bhai Lehna Ji was renamed Guru Angad Dev Ji and the Guruship was passed on to him. For example, when a cup fell in the dirt, Sri Chand, Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s son would not go to pick it up, but Bhai Lehna Ji gladly went into the mud to pick it up.  

Guru Angad Dev Ji was married to Mata Khivi Ji at age 16 and lived the life of a householder. They had four children: Dasu, Datu, Amro, Anokhi. Both of them did an incredible amount of hard work and sewa in their lifetime. They are a role model to us about how a marriage should be. Guru Ji created the Gurmukhi script. This is particular important because at that time, most religious writings were in Sanskrit and only the elite could read it. Punjabi was simple enough that there was no division among people- it was easy for anyone to learn to read and write. It was also clear enough that there wasn’t misinterpretation. Guru Ji believed in education and created many schools. He also taught about equality and carried on the tradition of langar. He established many religious institutions. 

Guru Ji was an advocate of physical wellness as well and used to teach youth to exercise and play sports after their prayers in the morning, because he believed that being fit was a foundation for being able to have higher goals for your mind. I think nowadays perhaps we under-value how important it is to keep physically fit! Guru Ji contributed 63 shabads and saloks now in the Guru Granth Sahib Ji. 

References: 
http://barusahib.org/general/prakash-utsav-guru-angad-dev-ji/
Book Illustrated Life Stories of Guru Sahibs’ by Dr. Ajit Singh Aulakh (really awesome English resource!) 
Picture from http://www.sikh-history.com/sikhhist/gurus/nanak2.html