Prince George Sikh Youth

The night of Day 17 we arrived in Anandpur Sahib. I think in the future one should dedicate around a week to visiting the city as there is a lot to see. The evening-time was a great time to go visit as we got to see the shashtars (weapons) of Guru Ji. They have preserved the Khanda that was used to prepare Amrit in 1699 as well as the kanga (comb) with hair of Guru Ji. This is the road leading up to the Gurdwara Sahib, it is a steep hill.

TAKHT SRI KESGARH SAHIB ANANDPUR SAHIB

This is where Guru Gobind Singh Ji created the Khalsa in 1699. The city was originally named Chakk Nanki and founded by Guru Teg Bahadur Ji. This area used to be filled with jungle and animals, so many people were afraid to visit until Guru Teg Bahadur Ji established Chakk Nanaki. Guru Gobind Singh Ji spent 25 years here and named it Anandpur meaning city of Bliss. It was at Anandpur Sahib that Guru Teg Bahadur Ji listened to the concerns of the Kashmiri Brahmins and made the decision to sacrifice their life to save the Hindu religion, Guru Ji’s head was brought back to Anandpur from Delhi by Bhai Jaita and Guru Gobind Singh Ji cremated his head here (Gurdwara Sri Sis Ganj Sahib).

In the past, the hill of Kesgarh Sahib was higher and there was another hill beside it called “Tambu Wali Pahari” meaning the hill with a tent. This hill and the many hills around Kesgarh Sahib which accommodated the large crowds of Vaisakhi in 1699 were demolished in 1973 when a road was made to link the Takht to Sri Anandgarh Sahib fort. It would be amazing to see the equivalent to the entire population of Prince George (80, 000) standing to listen to Guru Ji! It is sad that we are losing our history in the name of modernization, I think they should have found a way to preserve these hills.

Anandpur Sahib was attacked many times from 1700 to 1705 without success. Leading up to Kesgarh, were the forts of Taragarh, Agamgar, Fategarh and Anandgarh. Only when the sangat was starving and Aurganzeb promised safe passage, did Guru Ji leave the fort and the armies started to demolish the fort. Baba Bandha Singh Ji later retook the city. Baba Baghel Singh worked on reconstruction and repair in the 1780s under the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Anandpur Sahib is surrounded by 4 gates commemorating Diwan Todar Mal, Nawab Sher Muhammed Khan, Baba Banda Singh Bahadur and Baba Moti Ram Mehra. Over time the Saltej river has moved from flowing through Anandpur to flowing near Kiratpur.

We got the Hukam from Ang 651 "Gur Seva Te Such Opje". We decided not to eat langar as everyone was exhausted and we looked around to see which Saran would be appropriate. We stayed at the Bhai Bachittar Singh Saran which was recently opened and is still being fully constructed. Bhai Bachittar Singh took Amrit in 1699 from Guru Ji and was selected by Guru Ji to face a drunk elephant sent to destroy the gate of Lohgarh fort. Bachittar Singh single-handedly attacked with a spear and returned to the enemy side to start destroying their side instead. After the evacuation of Anandpur, he successfully crossed the Sarsa nadi but was later critically wounded, carried to Nihang Khan’s house (see history below). Mughal troops searched his home but Nihang Khan managed to keep them from entering the room saying his daughter was caring for her ill husband. He breathed his last and was cremated by Nihang Khan.

Day 18

In the morning we visited the Takht Sri Kesgarh Sahib again. Here is the map of the day.

The gate outside the Gurdwara Sahib:

The Takht itself:

We weren't allowed to take pictures inside so here is one from the Sikh2Inspire Facebook page:

Shashtars:

Guru Ji's Kangi and hair:

From: https://www.facebook.com/sikh2inspire/posts/takht-sri-keshgarh-sahib-the-last-stop-of-the-s2iyatra19-what-an-amazing-time-it/1347149368757693/
Shashtars:

Above From https://www.justdial.com/photos/takhat-sri-keshgarh-sahib-anandpur-sahib-ropar-tourist-attraction-3myaucl-pc-53026934-sco-99q22mei2y6

GURDWARA MANJI SAHIB DUMALGARH SAHIB

This is right across from the Takht, and this is where the Sahibzaade got their education and military training. There was wrestling matches here as well. Guru Sahib was sitting here under a tree when the ruler of Bilaspur attacked Anandpur Sahib. The Sikhs were commanded by Bhai Maan Singh Nischanchi, who was wounded and the Khalsa flag broke. Guru Ji tore a farra (cloth) from his keski and sent it in the form of a flag, declaring that in the future the Khalsa flag wouldn’t fall or get lowered and this would be a part of the turban of every Sikh leader. Sahibzada Fateh Singh thus also hung a farra on his turban as did Sikh leaders over time. Now only the Nihangs practice this.

The mountains around Anandpur reminded me of BC.

Five Forts

Guru Ji made the following five Forts at Anandpur Sahib for the defense of the Sikhs (main being Kesgarh and then five surrounding) from Moghals and Hill Rajas. The forts are connected via underground tunnels.

Fort Kesgarh: the main fort, now Takht Sri Kesgarh Sahib.

Qila Lohgarh Sahib (fort of steel) was the second strongest fort, and was where there was a factory for making shashtars (arms). This was to protect the riverside area. We didn’t visit here due to limited time.

Qila Holgarh Sahib (aka Agamgarh, fort of color) is where Guru Ji introduced Hola Mohalla in 1701, the day after Holi. During this, the Sikhs competed in wrestling, archery, swordsmanship, etc. See post on Hola Mohalla for more details. We didn’t get to see this when we visited.

GURDWARA SRI QILA (pronounced killa) ANANDGARH SAHIB

Qila Anandgarh Sahib (Fort of Bliss) is in the middle of the city, and has a Baoli sahib in the Gurdwara Sahib. The baoli has 135 marbled steps.

This Gurdwara Sahib was across from the Quila.

From here you could see Gurdwara Sri Shahidi Bagh Sahib in the background

And the Virasat-E-Khalsa

Last are Qila Fatehgarh Sahib (fort of victory) where Sahibzada Fateh Singh was born, and Qila Taragarh Sahib which was meant to stop hill armies from advancing. We didn't get to see these due to shortage of time. Then we left to Kiratpur Sahib.

GURDWARA PATAL PURI

This Gurdwara is in Kiratpur Sahib. It is on the bank of the Sultej River. Guru Hargobind Sahib and Guru Har Rai Ji were cremated here, and the ashes of Guru Harkrishan Sahib were brought from Delhi to immerse in this river as well; thus many families bring the ashes of their loved ones to this location. Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited Kiratpur when it was still jungle, Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji visited here, and Guru Har Rai Ji and Guru Harkrishan Sahib Ji were born and given Gurgaddi here.

This the plant from which the leaves are turned into a container for Degh

Next we travelled to Guru Nagar.

GURDWARA SRI BHATTA SAHIB

Guru Ji made four visits here. It is located in Guru Nagar, Ropar. The first was after winning the Battle of Bhangani, a Bhatta (kiln) was burning here at the time and Guru Ji asked the laborers where he could rest. They pointed to the Bhatta and Guru Ji’s horse stepped on the hot kiln. Suddenly the Bhatta cooled and the hoof left prints which are preserved at the Gurdwara Sahib. Chaudhry Nihang Khan who owned the Bhatta came running at the news and found Guru Ji sitting on the Bhatta. He took Guru Ji to his fort. The next visit was when Guru Ji came for the engagement of the Chauhdry Nihang Khan’s son, the third was after returning from Kurukshetra and the last was after Guru Ji left Anandpur for the last time. Chaudhry Nihang Khan was asked to look after the wounded Bhai Bachittar Singh as mentioned above, and Guru Ji handed him a Sri Sahib, katar and shield as gifts. These are preserved at Gurdwara Sri Shaheed Ganj Bhai Bachittar Singh.

Hoof marks:

All surrounding Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji is that same material.

Here is a picture of a Bhatta (from our Pakistan trip). It's a type of oven where bricks are baked from clay.

Next we left for Chamkaur Sahib.

GURUDWARA SHRI KATALGARH SAHIB JI

This Gurdwara Sahib is at Chamkaur Sahib and is where the field of the battle of Chamkaur occurred on Dec 21. 1705. The Gurdwara was made in 1931 and replaced in the 1960s.

We weren't allowed to take photos so here's one from online
Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/iggysingh/13167519133/

GURDWARA GARHI SAHIB

In the Battle of Chamkaur, Guru Ji and 40 Sikhs were chased by Mughals and made it to Chamkaur, where they stayed in a mud two-story house. 37 Sikhs were martyred including Guru Ji’s two older Sahibzaade and three of the Panj Pyare. The remaining five Sikhs used their authority of Guruship and told guru Ji to escape at night, followed by three Sikhs (see below in history of Macchiwara). Guru Ji gave his clothing to Sangat Singh, and in the meantime escaped, as well as Bhai Dya Singh, Dharam Singh and Mani Singh. When the Mughals invaded the next day, Sangat Singh and Sant Singh were martyred. The double-storied house was located at the site of this Gurdwara. Very sadly, the original Chamkaur-de-Gari/Kachi Gari was demolished by the SGPC and replaced with a new Gurdwara Sahib. Our original history has been lost just for the sake of modernization. This should have been a preserved historical site. See picture of the original Kachi Gari.

A picture of the old Kachi Garhi from https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Garhi_Sahib

Next we were off to Machiwara

GURDWARA SRI CHARAN KANWAL SAHIB

This Gurdwara is in Machiwara. The name means fish-ground as it used to be a fishing village on the edge of the Saltej river; however, over time now the river has moved 13 km away. Guru Sahib came to rest in the forests of Machiwara after leaving Anandpur and finding out that his entire family had been martyred. This was on Dec 7, 1705. He rejoined Bhai Dya Singh, Dharam Singh and Mani Singh here at a garden where the Gurdwara now sits. The tree under which Guru Ji rested and composed the shabad “Mitr Pyare Nu” is still present. The well Guru Ji drank from is also preserved.

GURDWARA SRI GANI KHAN NABI KHAN SAHIB

This Gurdwara is also in Machhiwara. Guru Ji went to the house of Gulaba then visited Gani Khan and Nabi Khan’s home for two days and nights. The brothers were horse dealers and knew Guru Ji from Anandpur. They called him “Uch Da Peer”- the holy man of the old seat of Muslim Saints. Then Gani Khan, Nabi Khan, Bhai Dya Singh, Dharam Singh and Mani Singh carried out Guru Ji on a palanquin, disguised as their prophet so that Guru Ji could make a safe escape from the Mughals. This Gurdwara Sahib was made in 1947 in a house of the descendants of Gani Khan and Nabi Khan. The Hukamnama Guru Ji gave them is also preserved. The smadh of Gani and Nabi Khan exists in the Gurdwara too (their graves, as in Muslim tradition).

Next we travelled to Fatehgarh Sahib.

GURDWARA SRI FATEHGARH SAHIB

This is where the young Sahibzaade were bricked alive and martyred.

Photos were not allowed inside Fatehgarh Sahib or Sri Bhora Sahib so here are some from online. I think the more I realize that our history has been lost, it is important for us to preserve pictures. I think a good idea to prevent there from being hundreds of people taking pictures and not enjoying the spiritual essence would be for them to take professional photos of all the historic Gurdwara Sahibs and write down their history, then give it to the visiting sangat in the form of a book or digital form photographs on a CD.
photos are from http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_fatehgarh_sahib.html

GURDWARA SRI BHORA SAHIB FATEHGARH

The wall where the Sahibzaade were bricked had fallen, but the location is underneath Gurdwara Sri Fatehgarh Sahib and is called Sri Bhora Sahib. The kirpan hilts of the Sahibzaade are saved here.
photos are from http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_bhora_sahib_fatehgarh.html#gallery[gallery1]/0/

The one below is from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatehgarh_Sahib#/media/File:2_A_view_of_Bhora_Sahib_Ji,_Sirhind_Fatehgarh_Sahib_Punjab_India,_sanctum_where_two_sons_of_Guru_Gobind_Singh_were_buried_alive_by_Islamic_army.jpg

GURDWARA SRI SHAHEED GANJ SAHIB FATEHGARH

At this Gurdwara, Baba Banda Singh Bahadur Ji cremated 6000 martyrs from the battle of Sirhind.

GURDWARA SRI THANDA BURJ SAHIB

This Thanda Burj (cold fort) is where Mata Gujri and the younger Sahibzaade were held prisoner by Wazir Khan, in the winter. It is meant to be a cool space for the summer. Mata Gujri was Jyoti Jyot here.

This picture of the interior is from
http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_thanda_burj_sahib.html#gallery[gallery1]/7/

GURUDWARA SHRI JYOTI SAROOP SAHIB

This is where Mata Gujri Ji, Sahibzada Zorawar Singh Ji and Sahibzada Fateh Singh Ji were cremated. The road connecting it to Gurdwara Fategarh Sahib is called Diwan Todar Mal Marg. Locals feared Wazir Khan and refused to sell land to Todar Mal to cremate the Sahibzaade and Mata Ji, however finally a tiny piece of land was bought in exchange for carpeting that area of land with vertically standing gold coins. Later, Maharaja Karam Singh of Patiala had to research and search the spot of cremation, and found the urn with the ashes. He built this Gurdwara there in 1843. Further improvements were made a hundred years later.