As mentioned in the previous post, in the evening we arrived at Talwandi Sabo.
TAKHT SRI DAMDAMA SAHIB
After Guru Gobind Singh Ji left Anandpur Sahib, he walked through Machiwara, Lakhi Jungle, and Mukhtsar, arriving at Talwandi Sabo which is the location of present-day Damdama Sahib. The meaning of Damdama is to take a break and rest. Guru Ji stayed here in 1705 for a year. Guru Teg Bahadur had visited this place and called it “Guru Ki Kashi” as he predicted that scholars and philosophers would visit here, which indeed they did. Bhai Mani Singh Ji came with Mata Sundri and Mata Sahib Kaur. Bhai Mani Singh Ji and Baba Deep Singh Ji prepared the final copy of the Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji under Guru Ji’s supervision. This is known as the Damdame Wali Bir. Baba Deep Singh JI became the Jathedar (head) of Damdama Sahib and made additional copies of Guru Granth Sahib Ji, sending them to the other four Takhts. One of the copies prepared by Baba Deep Singh Ji is preserved here. “It is said that one day Guru Gobind flung a handful of reed pens over the heads of the congregation ('Sangat'), to quote the Sakhi Pothi, the Guru said: ‘Thousands of Sikhs will hereafter study the holy texts in this place and then pens will come into use. This is our Kashi (seat of learning); those who study here will cast off their ignorance and rise to be authors, poets and commentators.’" Guru Ji gave Hukams from Damdama Sahib and gave amrit to 1.2 Lakh Sikhs in Vaisakhi of 1706.
We arrived just as the Ardas was about to be done in the evening. We saw historical shastars (weapons) such as Baba Deep Singh Ji’s Khanda, Bandookh used by Guru Ji to test Bhai Bir Singh and Dhir Singh, and Guru Ji’s Mor (stamp). Other historical preservations include Guru Ji’s mirror, and Sri Sahib (sword) of Guru Gobind Singh Ji. After eating langar, we checked out the sarans but decided to stay in a hotel instead. We drove to Bathinda and stayed in the Country Inn Radisson. At this point were really relieved and overjoyed that we had gotten to see the 5 Takhts, but also feeling tired from the trip thus far.
Day 19
We had breakfast at our hotel, where I had some waffles and realized there’s no syrup (in retrospect it makes sense that there’s no maple syrup), so I found out in India they eat waffles with honey. In case you were wondering, it doesn’t taste good.
We went again to Takht Sri Damdama Sahib Ji to matha tek.
We weren't allowed to take photos inside so here are some from online http://www.sikhsinscotland.org/gallery_detail/5-Takht-Yatra-by-G-Ark-from-Larbert-Scotland/20/5.phtml
GURDWARA BURJ BABA DEEP SINGH (GURDWARA BHORA SAHIB BABA DEEP SINGH JI SHAHEED)
This is where Baba Deep Singh and Bhai Mani Singh place wrote Guru Granth Sahib. This is also the Tap Asthan, where Baba Deep Singh meditated but no photos were allowed. As head granthi, Baba Ji was responsible for distributing Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji and spreading the message of Gurbani. This Gurdwara is a 20 metre tower and was built by Baba Ji. He is an example of a true sant-sapahi and serves as a role model for all of us. In addition to the four copies of Sri Guru Granth Sahib Baba Ji prepared and sent to the other Takhts, he wrote a copy in Arabic and sent it to the middle east. Guru Ji left in 1706 leaving Baba Ji in charge of Damdama Sahib, and Bhai Mani Singh to head sangat at Harmandir Sahib. Baba Ji continuously wrote Gutkas for the community.
GURDWARA SRI LIKHANSAR SAHIB
'Likhansar' means the “Pool of writing.” Guru Gobind Singh Ji sat near a pool of water here. Bhai Mani Singh Ji used a kalam to write the Guru Granth Sahib Ji as Guru Ji recited the Bani, then Guru Ji threw the kalams (reed carved into a pen) into the sarovar, and said “'whomsoever shall write the thirty five words of the Gurmukhi here will be blessed with a sharp mind.” Chaudhry Dal Singh once asked Guru Ji why these pends had been thrown into the water, and Guru Ji said "Thousands of Sikhs will study the holy texts in this place and then pens will come into use. This is our Kashi (seat of learning); those who study here will cast off their ignorance and rise to be authors, poets and commentators." There is an area here where we all wrote the alphabet on chalkboards.
“Gurbilas Patshahi 10
This is the Kashi of the Guru, the school of learning.
It always waits on its toes for the wise.
Pilgrims bow their heads to the 35 Gurmukhi alphabet.
The light wells up from each letter with rare meanings.
Miracles happen all the time they are never history.
And the myth is transformed into truth.
In the windstorm of falsehood, it's darkness at noon.
Out of dust clouds appear the friendly faces.
All happens in the present moment of time.
In a scratch three centuries shrink into a second.
The Kalghidhar (Guru Gobind Singh) sits by the pond of Likhansar.
He dips the reed-pen in the ink divine then puts the first letter.
He sharpens the reeds and throws them in the pond.
They have holy dip praising the Lord.
The Satguru answers to congregation's bewilderment:
The reeds are the seeds of knowledge and contemplation.
For the Sikhs I sharpen the reeds and offer them to the water.
To reach generations of my Sikhs to come.
Deep Singh and Mani Singh's calligraphy is like pearls stringed.
How fortunate they are they trace the first word.
This pen is like khanda the double edged sword.
It cuts many ways it's hard to fathom its essence.
Bhai Mani Singh laid down his life mangled bone by bone.
and Deep Singh, they say, died holding his severed head on his left hand and the khanda in the right.
In the congregation I stand with folded hands
With apprehension waiting for the gift of the pen.
A fire burns in my heart that I keep my promise.
I seek no deliverance save the love for the word.
With nervous hand I put the first letter on earth-paper.
I'll need many an incarnation to learn, unlearn and then learn again.”
It always waits on its toes for the wise.
Pilgrims bow their heads to the 35 Gurmukhi alphabet.
The light wells up from each letter with rare meanings.
Miracles happen all the time they are never history.
And the myth is transformed into truth.
In the windstorm of falsehood, it's darkness at noon.
Out of dust clouds appear the friendly faces.
All happens in the present moment of time.
In a scratch three centuries shrink into a second.
The Kalghidhar (Guru Gobind Singh) sits by the pond of Likhansar.
He dips the reed-pen in the ink divine then puts the first letter.
He sharpens the reeds and throws them in the pond.
They have holy dip praising the Lord.
The Satguru answers to congregation's bewilderment:
The reeds are the seeds of knowledge and contemplation.
For the Sikhs I sharpen the reeds and offer them to the water.
To reach generations of my Sikhs to come.
Deep Singh and Mani Singh's calligraphy is like pearls stringed.
How fortunate they are they trace the first word.
This pen is like khanda the double edged sword.
It cuts many ways it's hard to fathom its essence.
Bhai Mani Singh laid down his life mangled bone by bone.
and Deep Singh, they say, died holding his severed head on his left hand and the khanda in the right.
In the congregation I stand with folded hands
With apprehension waiting for the gift of the pen.
A fire burns in my heart that I keep my promise.
I seek no deliverance save the love for the word.
With nervous hand I put the first letter on earth-paper.
I'll need many an incarnation to learn, unlearn and then learn again.”
We walked by Gurdwara Baba Bhir Singh Baba Dhir Singh Ji
Walking along there were signs reminding people not to forget their punjabi, translated as "Speak Punjabi, Read Punjabi, and Write Punjabi"
BHAI DALLA SINGH HOUSE
Bhai Dalla Singh was a Chaudhry (landlord) of Talwandi Sabo and gathered 400 individuals to welcome Guru Gobind Ji’s arrival. Bhai Dalla would often brag about his army of soldiers, and that they could have helped Guru Ji had he asked in the past. One day, two artisans came and presented Guru ji with guns, Guru Ji asked Bhai Dalla to provide his men as targets to test the range and power, but Dalla was shocked and none of his men came forth. Two Ranghreta Sikhs both came running at the request of Guru Ji. Bhai Dalla then realized and was humbled at the scenario, that these Sikhs came running for the sacrifice. He then got amrit and became Dal Singh. The items given to him by Guru Ji are preserved here by Bhai Dalla’s own family over the generations!
We were not allowed to take photos, so I have some videos and photos below from online (which are probably better than ones we would have gotten anyways).
We were not allowed to take photos, so I have some videos and photos below from online (which are probably better than ones we would have gotten anyways).
Photos provided from Kalgidhar Society (Baru Sahib)’s website:
Some pictures of the drive to Gobindgarh.
GOBINDGARH GURDWARA SAHIB
I couldn’t find an official name for this Gurdwara Sahib, which is in my dad’s village. The local sangat is working on building a new Gurdwara Sahib.
General pictures including the drive to Muktsar.
The lush greenery never ceased to amaze me and I realized I was tired of seeing pine trees over and over at home!
MUKTSAR
Muktsar used to be called 'Khidrana' or 'Khidrane Di Dhab', but renamed after the 1705 battle. Guru Angad Dev Ji was born at Matte Ji Sarai (Sarai Naga) 16 km from Mukhtsar. Moving forward in time to the battle of Muktsar. Guru Ji and 400 Sikhs left Anandpur Sahib in Dec 1704 after the Mughals swore on the Quaran and Rajputs swore on the Gita and cow, that they would get safe passage. They only considered leaving after having run out of provisions. During that time 40 Sikhs from Majha deserted Guru Ji and signed a declaration they were no longer Sikhs, and Guru Ji wasn’t their Guru. Guru Ji and the remaining Sikhs left Anandpur Sahib and were betrayed by the Mughals and Rajputs causing the loss of many Sikhs and precious manuscripts as well as the separation of Guru Ji from his family. After losing his family, Guru Ji strategically got the help of a Brar chief and reached Khidrane Di Dhab to battle 10, 000 Mughals headed by Wazir Khan. Mai Bhago convinced the 40 Sikhs to return and join Guru Ji in battle here. From above they threw arrows at the army and sent for reinforcements. This was a semi-desert area and the Mughals became tired in need of water, realizing they could not reach the lake of Khidrana under fire as Guru Ji’s defenses were around the water. Thus the Mughals turned back. Here Mai Bhago was injured, and the 40 others were martyred. Mahan Singh in his last moments of life, tearfully asked Guru Ji to destroy the document that they had not been Guru Ji’s Sikhs. Guru Ji tore it up and gave them Mukhti giving the name Mukhtsar.
GURDWARA ANGEETHA SAHIB/SRI SHAHEED GANJ SAHIB
This is where the Sikhs were cremated and the Antim Sanskar was performed.
GURDWARA MUKTSAR DARBAR SAHIB (SRI TUTI GANDI SAHIB)
This is where the document (Bedawa) was ripped.
Tree where guru Gobind Singh Ji tied his horse.
GURDWARA SRI TAMBU SAHIB MUKTSAR
This is where the 40 Mukhte took position behind trees and placed cloth sheets on the trees to make them look like tents (Tambus) to make the Mughals think there were far more Sikhs present.
GURUDWARA SRI MATA BHAG KAUR
This Gurdwara remembers Mai Bhago, who led the Chali Mukhte in rejoining Guru Gobind Singh Ji. She fought with an 11 kg weapon! She got seriously injured but managed to survive the battle and continued to serve Guru Ji, returning to Nanded where she merged into God.
GURDWARA SRI JANAM ASTHAN GURU ANGAD SAHIB
We left for Kot Kapura next. On the way we stopped at this Gurdwara Sahib located at Sarai Naga. This is the birthplace of Guru Anged Dev JI, born to parents Baba Pheru Mal and Mata Sabharee. It was Baba Pheru Mal who gave Guru Nanak Dev Ji a rabab and it was given to Bhai Mardana.
GODAVARI SAR PATSHAI DASVIN
This is just 13 km from Kotkapura, and is where Guru Gobind Singh Ji visited when on the way to Mukhtsar. Chaudhry Kapura founded the town but declined to give his fort to help fight the Mughals.
GURDWARA BASTAR ASTHAAN (SODIAN GURDWARA)
This Gurdwara Sahib is in Dilwan Khalan. We saw preservations of Guru’s clothes.
Here are a couple of photos from online because the Guru Granth Sahib Ji was already Sukhasan at the time we arrived.
We ate at a Dhaba that evening, which was interesting since they only had Paneer Pakoras and didn’t understand what I meant when I said “I just want a regular, normal pakora!”
The next day we travelled back to Amritsar, and I will post about the Gurdwaras along the way.
References
https://barusahib.org/general/remembering-the-tenth-master-guru-gobind-singh-ji-2/
