Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 4: Amritsar

This is the third post today (Principles and Life in Amritsar so please read those as well!).

From Nanded went to the airport on a bus and flew to Amritsar. It was a flight full of Sikhs so as soon as it took off someone said “Bole So Nihal!” and everyone replied “Sat Sri Akal!”- what a unique thing to see. When we landed in Amritsar, immediately the air was noticeably less polluted. We were booked to stay in a new saran but unfortunately there was a traffic jam of at least a couple of hours preventing us from getting into the Harmandir Sahib complex, so we stayed in the Hyatt instead. Afterwards we took an “auto” to Harmandir Sahib as that was the only thing that could make it through the traffic. We didn’t have time to matha tek but we did parkarma and ate langar. 

Day 8: Sunday

GURDWARA SRI SHAHEED GANJ BABA DEEP SINGH

This Gurdwara is where Baba Deep Singh Ji’s head was separated from his body, although he kept fighting until he reached the present location of Gurdwara Sri Baba Deep Singh Shaheed. This is where the cremation of Baba Deep Singh Ji occurred. See the post on Baba Deep Singh Ji for more details.

GURDWARA SRI BABA DEEP SINGH SHAHEED

This Gurdwara is within the Harmandir Sahib complex. It is where Baba Deep Singh Ji layed his head on the parkarma and merged with God.

GURDWARA SHAHEED SANT GIANI JARNAIL SINGH JE KHALSA BHINDRANWALE ATE JUNE 1982 SAKE DE SAMHOO SHAHEEDA DE YADGAR
This Gurdwara Sahib is in memory of those were martyred in June 1984 including Sant Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale. It is located next to the Akal Takht. 



GURDWARA BIBEKSAR SAHIB 
This Gurdwara Sahib is next to the Bibeksar sarovar built by Guru Harobind Sahib. Guru Ji rested here and would tied his horse onto a Kareer tree. The Gurdwara Sahib was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh Ji. Guru Ji would also spread Sikhi (do parchar) from here. 

GURDWARA YAADGAR VAISAKHI 1978 DE SHAHEED

This Gurdwara remembers the 13 Singhs: Bhai Fauja Singh, Bahi Avtar Singh, Bahi Harbhajan Singh, Bhai Piara Singh, Bhai Raghbir Singh, Bhai Gurcharan Singh, Bhai Gurdial Singh, Bhai Amrik Singh, Bhai Dharambir Singh, Bhai Kewal Singh, Bhai Hari Singh, Bahi Ranbir Singh Fauji, and Baba Darshan Singh who were made Shaheed in 1978 and cremated there. They had been peacefully protesting against a group of Nirankaris, who had planned a procession through Amritsar to shout insults against the Guru Jis. 5000-6000 Nirankaris came armed with bombs, acid bottles, stones, guns and spears against them.

GURDWARA THARA SAHIB: SRI GURU TEG BAHADUR SAHIB JI

After being named Guru, Guru Teg Bahadur Ji went to Harmandir Sahib. Unfortunately, the son of Mehrwan and Masands shut the doors of the Gurdwara Sahib. Guru Ji then went to the location of this present day Gurdwara to pray. A thara is a raised platform. 






THARHA SAHIB ASTHAN TIRATH
This is within the Harmandir Sahib complex and is where Guru Ramdas Ji sat to supervise the excavation of the Sarovar. Guru Ji recited a shabad here "Athsan Teerath Ja Sadh Pag Dhareh" meaning a place graced by saints becomes equivalent to the combined pilgrimages of 68 holy places. 

GURDWARA SRI SHAHEED GANJ BABA GURBAKSH SINGH 

This Gurdwara Sahib is next to the gate of Harmandir Sahib and Akal Takht Sahib. Baba Gurbaksh Singh fought with 30 Sikhs and were martyred defending Harmandir Sahib from the attack of Ahmad Shah Abdali's forces of 30 000 in 1764 during his 10^thinvasion.

BERI BABA BUDDHA JI

This is where Baba Buddha Ji camped while doing sewa of digging the amrit sarovar and construction of Harmandir Sahib. I didn't take a picture of this so here's one from discoversikhism.

DUKH BHANJANI BERI

Dukh Bhanjani Beri is a below which Bibi Rajni’s husband was cured of leprosy in the sarovar (see post on Dukh Bhanjani Beri for more details).

GURDWARA LACHI BER SAHIB

This Gurdwara is right next to the entrance gate of Harmandir Sahib. The tree (beri) grows Lachis (cardamom). Guru Arjan Dev Ji used to sit here to supervise excavation of the sarovar and building of Harmandir Sahib in 1577. Bhai Sukha Singh and Mehtab singh also tied their horses to this tree in 1740 when going to execute Massa Rangar who had taken over control of the Gurdwara Sahib. 

GURDWARA MANJI SAHIB 

This Gurdwara Sahib is where Guru Arjan Dev Ji composed Sukhmani Sahib sitting on the bank of the Ramsar Sarovar (named after Guru Ramdas Ji) under a Ber tree. There was a tharha under the Beri Tree where Guru Ji sat. 

GURDWARA RAMSAR SAHIB

This is where Guru Arjan Dev Ji complied the Adi (pronounced Aadh) Granth. Guru Ji had the Ramsar Sarovar dug, and spent time with Bhai Gurdas Ji who transcribed the Gurbani. Guru Ji added his own compositions and selections from Hindu Sants and Muslim Pirs and had the Aadh Granth installed at Harmandir Sahib in 1604.

GURDWARA BABA ATAL RAI SAHIB JI
Unfortunately we only had time to look at this Gurdwara Sahib Ji outside on passing. This Gurdwara is where Guru Hargobind Sahib's son, Baba Atal Rai is remembered. At a young age, everything he said came true which is why at a young age he was called Baba Ji. He used to play Khidho- Khoondi at a young age with friends, and became friends with a boy named Mohan with the promise of meeting the next day. Overnight, Mohan got bit by a snake and died. Baba Ji went to his house to look for him and found out what happened. Putting his Khoondi around Mohan's neck, he told him to get up to play and Mohan came back to life. There was much discussion in the town, and when Guru Ji found out, he requested Baba Ji to come to the Akal Takht. Guru Ji explained we must obey God's will and it was not right for him to bring back his friend from death. Baba Atal Rai then laid down his own life after bathing in the sarovar, doing parkarma of Harmandir Sahib and going into meditation. When Guru Ji learned of this he said "All those who are born must die. Such is the Almighty’s Will. What pleases Him is good. We should accept it cheerfully. Atal’s name and fame shall live for ever.” Baba Ji was cremated there and since he was 9 years old, the Gurdwara Sahib is 9 stories high. 

We then drove to Moga to visit Gurdwara Prabh Milne Ka Chao.

PRABH MILNE KA CHAO

It was amazing to get to attend for just a few hours during the annual camp. We listened to kirtan, ate langar, and met members of sangat. It was so inspiring to meet people who are further on their spiritual journey and share their loving personalities. We also got to drink fresh sugar cane juice which was so delicious!

Kids sitting and listening peacefully all by themselves! 

Day 9  

We went to Harmandir Sahib early in the morning at 3 am and stayed to see the Parkash of Guru Ji. Although it is still somewhat busy, it is a great time to go and get to enjoy the peace of the surroundings.

HARMANDIR SAHIB

the anticipation rises as you approach







old gate, with bullet marks from 1984

We couldn't take any photos inside, so here are some from the internet of the inside of Harmandir Sahib Ji (sources in references below):

SRI AKAL TAKHT SAHIB

Again here's a picture from pinterest of the inside of the Akal Takht


We navigated our way thanks to my uncle ji who knew the Gurdwaras and their history, but if you are going alone it would be nice to have a bit of a map. Here's one from sikhiwiki:

Next part will be our trip to Pakistan!

References

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_shaheed_ganj_baba_deep_singh.html

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_thada_sahib_amritsar.html#gallery[gallery1]/3/

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/historic_place_of_dukh_bhanjani_beri.html

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_lachi_ber_sahib.html

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/historic_place_of_beri_baba_budha.html

http://www.historicalgurudwaras.com/GurudwaraDetail.aspx?gid=4153

http://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Ramsar_Sahib

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_shaheed_ganj_baba_gurbaksh_singh.html

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_yaadgar_vaisakhi_1978_de_shaheed_sahib.html

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Baba_Atal_Sahib 

http://www.historicalgurudwaras.com/GurudwaraDetail.aspx?gid=4131
http://www.historicalgurudwaras.com/GurudwaraDetail.aspx?gid=4146 
https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/130463720433374719/?lp=true
http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/sri_harmandir_sahib.html 
https://www.pinterest.com/jaideepwadali/travel-places-that-i-love/ 
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Thara_Sahib  
http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/historic_place_of_beri_baba_budha.html#gallery[gallery1]/6/ 

Principles

Yesterday we celebrated the Vaisakhi Nagar Kirtan. I said a few words in Punjabi of Congratulations on Khalsa’s Sajna Divas, as well as how inspiring it was to go to India and Pakistan encouraged others to go on these yatras. I also talked a little bit about how we need to focus on our internal core principles, and I will expand on that here. 

Often times I hear speeches during Vaisakhi encouraging our young generation to look a certain way, but we don’t tell them how to act upon the principles of Sikhism. We don’t seem to start at the foundation stones, so instead of following principles, young people learn ritualism and rules. In the episode “Changing Behaviour” Prof. Baldev Mutta talks about the interaction between our value system, habits and behaviours. He discusses how our feelings, thoughts and words form our habits, which form our personality; so, to change a behaviour one needs to understand the value systems underlying the habits. While values are fluid and often come from culture, he explained that principles are foundation stones that don’t change. Guru Arjan Dev Ji tells us our principles in Sikhi should be truth, contentment, wisdom, concentration, compassion and forgiveness. Others I can think of in Sikhi are Naam japna, Vand shakna and Kirat karni, to treat women and people of all castes equally. He explained how the difference in values leads to conflict with parents and children as parents often carry their values from Punjab and children have Canadian value systems. He encourages us to move out of blaming and complaining to working on those value systems that lead to our conflicts and make them in line with our principles. An example of conflicts in values and principles I gave yesterday is about women. Whereas cultural values pull a woman back, lets make our daughters Shernis (lionesses) like Mai Bhago and teach our Singhnis they are equal. I have so many examples (including my own in just this last week) of where people are following Indian culture and are being disrespectful to women. The Guru Jis sacrificed so much for us, and it is our responsibility to walk that path that they have shown us for the good of the future and the generations to come. 

An interesting point Mr. Mutta made was that parents or couples often judge based on a person’s height, looks, skin color, caste or education level/job whether they are an appropriate match for their child (many of these are against Sikh principles), and yet there is so much we never bother to ask such as a person’s values, principles, understanding of family or civic responsibility. I think it is important for even an arranged relationship to explore if there are reasonable expectations from each other, and where you are on your spiritual journey. More than ever I am realizing that an Anand Karaj in front of Guru Ji is an extremely spiritually significant life event and that both people are promising to put Guru Ji first in their life. Bhai Baljit Singh Ji (Basics of Sikhi) explains that the only way that the relationship is not false is if it doesn’t make you forget God; if you both stay connected to your path. That has made me reflect a lot on how different it is to ask a person what their goals are in life, versus understanding in the context of this soul’s journey if you can both help each other achieve your life purpose. The child that’s born into that relationship will certainly be set up for a different future. In that spirit I have been working on an Anand Karaj guide for quite some time now, trying to combine what I have learned about Anand Karaj from different sources over the years, as it is not just important for a wedding but actually relevant to all of us whether you are already married or haven’t gotten married yet. It explains to us how to walk our spiritual journey. I will post it when its “done” (although I suspect one could keep working on it forever the deeper you understand the Gurbani).   

Let us look inside ourselves to examine what principles our Sikhi has given us and whether we are implementing them into our lives. 

References

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Pip5HCGIwM&list=PLLY3bVL3uSturr3U__vgqlRb4cD2y-H6l

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npxWJoF6AME 

Life in Amritsar

I'm just polishing up the part 4 post from my trip. In the meantime here are some general pictures from life in Amritsar and the way to Moga.




Great use of old plastic bottles- used for plants.

McDonalds sells things like Paneer Burger.

The hotel required you to put your card into the wall to make the electricity work, to save energy. What a great idea.