Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 9: Chuna Mundi and Kartarpur

Moving on to the next part of our yatra, we visited Chuna Mundi and Kartarpur.

Day 13
GURDWARA JANAM ASTHAN SRI GURU RAMDAS 

This Gurdwara is in Chuna (Choona) Mundi Bazaar in Lahore. Due to the location, the bazar can get extremely busy and it is best visited during certain times of day when there is less traffic. This is where Guru Ram Das Ji was born on September 24, 1534 to parents Sodhi Hardas Ji and Mata Daya Kaur. Maharani Nakain asked her husband, Maharaja Ranjit Singh to rebuild this Gurdwara Sahib in celebration of the birth of her son, as the original home of Guru Ji was small. Maharaja Ranjit Singh purchased some surrounding land and the Gurdwara was made in a similar style to Harmandir Sahib. This is where the Singh Sabha movement started, and the Gurdwara was under the control of the Shiromani Committee from 1927 to partition in ’47, when 18 Sikhs were martyred there. It has all been subsequently repaired. We got the Hukamnama on Ang 728, "Bhanda thoee bais thoop."

On the way to Kartarpur:






Our bus driver brought some amrood (guava) for us. They were DELICIOUS! We miss them now because the India ones and Canada ones didn't taste as good.



GURDWARA KARTARPUR SAHIB 

Gurdwara Kartarpur is in Kartarpur city, only 3 km from the border with India. Karori Mal (aka Duni Chand) was jealous that the Guru Ji was attracting so many followers. He was the governor of Kalanaur and went to arrest Guru Ji, but fell off his horse onto the ground and his turban rolled to the ground. The second time, he became blind. Finally he apologized to Guru Ji, and became a Sikh of Guru Ji. He gave Guru Nanak Dev Ji 100 acres of land on the bank of the Ravi. Guru Ji then settled here, made a hut and laid the foundation of Kartarpur in 1515. He stayed here for 18 years as a householder, cultivating the land with his parents, wife, and sons. Kartarpur became the first Sikh center. Guru Ji started langar here using locally grown food served by the sangat. Sarans were built, and Guru Ji sang Gurbani and delivered katha. This was also where Guru Ji appointed Bhai Lehna (Guru Angad Dev Ji) as his successor. Guru Ji also merged with God at Kartarpur. After this, Hindus and Muslims argued about what should be done with Guru Ji’s body (cremation or burial). They decided that flowers would be placed on Guru Ji’s body, whoevers were found to be withered the next day would lose but when the sheet was removed, the body was missing and the flowers were all fresh. The communities divided the sheet, and the Muslims buried it while the Hindus cremated it. Thus per Hindu tradition there is a Samadh in the Gurdwara, and a grave as per Muslim tradition. The original hut was washed away by floods. This site is therefore an important location for celebrating that Guru Ji was loved by Hindus, Muslims and Sikhs alike, and a message of peace for all. The current Gurdwara Sahib was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. 

Here I read the shabads "Har ras peevai" and "Re man aiso kar sanyasa." Then we did ardas and the Hukamnama on Ang 615 “Prabh ke saran sagal pei lathe” was read. There are currently attempts to make a corridor between Pakistan and India to allow people to come visit on Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s 550^th Parkash Divas. There was a lot of construction happening in the area and we got to eat langar which was locally grown... Again the rotis were like 4 times the size of ours!  






















We joked that these trucks look like they're going to get married! They were carrying just dirt

References of history: 
http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_kartarpur_sahib.html
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Kartarpur_Sahib
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Chuna_Mandi
http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_janam_asthan_guru_ram_das.html
https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Janam_Asthan_Sri_Guru_Ram_Das 

Historical Gurdwaras of India and Pakistan Yatra Part 8: Sialkot and Eminabad

Continuing on the next day in our Trip to Pakistan. 

Day 12

We travelled to Sialkot next. 

GURDWARA GURU KI BER

There was a Muslim fakir named Hamza Gaus who lived in Sialkot at the time of Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s arrival. He was popular amongst the locals for casting spells and charms, using his powers to help people get what they wanted. One Hindu came to him as he had no son, them promising to give the first-born to the Pir. He went on to have three sons. He told the Pir however, to name a price for his son and he would buy him instead of handing him over to the Pir, but the pir wanted the child and not his money. The man brought his son home and the Pir sought revenge. He locked himself inside and told no one to bother him, as he would come out in forty days after he cast a spell against the city. The people were in distress when Guru Nanak Dev Ji arrived. Guru Ji sat under a Ber tree from which the Pir’s dome could be seen. Guru Ji sent Mardana to tell the supporters of the Pir that the Minstrel of God has come to speak to the Pir. They said they were ordered not to bother him, so Bhai Mardana returned, but was sent again to appeal from the whole city otherwise the Pir’s spell would be broken by the will of God at mid-day. The disciplines said no again, but the people of the city got this news and came to see Guru Ji. Guru Ji sang a shabad as Bhai Mardana played the rabab. At noon there was a loud sound from the dome, and it had cracked, the sunshine shone through the darkness onto the Pir and his concentration was broken. He ran outside. Those in the city thanked Guru Ji, and the Pir came and complained that the individual had deserved this due to the broken promise. Guru Ji told him that those who lie and do wrong are to be helped onto the right path instead, because God is loving and forgiving. He told him he didn’t need a son as he has disciplines. Guru Ji told Bhai Mardana to go to the city and purchase truth and falsehood worth two paisas. He went around but only got laughed at, until a man named Mulla Khatri gave him a sheet of paper that said “Death is true and life is false.” Guru Ji showed this to the Pir, to show that there are those who are spiritually alive so it was unjust for him to punish the whole city for the wrongdoing of one man.

Mulla Khatri travelled with Guru Ji for some time. On another trip, he did not want to travel so he hid in his house and his wife told Bhai Mardana that he had left. He then got bitten by a snake and died. We heard the rest of his story a few posts back (Gurdwara Shikar Ghat in India) – he became reincarnated as a rabbit and achieved mukhti when he was shot by Guru Gobind Singh’s arrow. 

The Gurdwara was built by Shaheed Natha Singh. The Ber where Guru Ji sat is still there, and the dome where the Pir was in can be seen nearby (although I didn’t see it when I was there). Gurdwara had been attacked twice in the past thus there was extra security when we visited. This was one of my favorite Gurdwara Sahibs. I played the shabad Sunho Re Tu Koan, Kahan Te Aayo" on Ang 999. We got the Hukamnama “Isha Purakh sarab sukhdata…” from Ang 669. 

Next we went to Eminabad. 

GURDWARA RORI SAHIB 

Guru Nanak Dev Ji travelled to Eminabad after leaving Sultanpur, before setting out on the Udaasis. Babar’s army invaded Punjab in 1521 when Guru Nanak Dev Ji was in Eminabad (called Saidpur at the time). When the town was captured, Guru Ji was amongst those captured. At that time Guru Ji was staying here with Bhai Lalo, and lying on a hard surface of pebbles (hence the name Rori sahib). 

The Sikhs took over when the area was occupied by grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Sardar Charhat Singh Sukkarchakkia. The Gurdwara was managed by the Shiromani committee from 1922 to partition, when it was set on fire by a mob. In the back to the Gurdwara Sahib there is a room that was the original place Guru Ji was arrested, lying on the pebbles. There was an extensive amount of security (>100 police officers) at this location because of the conflict at the border. We did ardas and got the Hukamnama Ang 617 “Abnasi Jean Ko Data.”

GURDWARA KHUHI BHAI LALO

Bhai Lalo lived in Saidpur (Eminabad) and was a carpenter. Malik Bhago was a rich man who invited Guru Ji to stay in his house, but Guru Ji declined and stayed with Bhai Lalo. This angered Malik Bhago who summoned Guru Ji a second time. He told Guru Ji that he was dishonoring the Kshatriyas by eating at the house of a carpenter. It was here that Guru Ji asked Bhai Lalo to bring a plate of food and Malik Bhago to bring a plate. When he squeezed the food of Bhai Lalo, it poured milk whereas that of Malik Bhago poured blood, showing him that he was earning his living dishonestly but getting it from the poor (“sucking the blood of the poor”). Bhai Lalo’s house was first a dharamsala then became a Gurdwara named after the Khuhi (well). 
After doing research, it was discovered Bhai Lalo's house was owned by some locals. The government bought it out afterwards. 










someone working at sewing in their shop:

GURDWARA CHAKKI SAHIB

After Guru Ji was held prisoner by Babar, he was forced to grind corn using a chakki (millsone). Guru Ji’s chakki ran on it’s own while he sang kirtan! The corn was to feed the Mughal troops. They told Babar, who came and asked for forgiveness. Here is their interaction (from Sikhiwiki): “The emperor offered Guru Ji refreshments but Guru Sahib replied, ‘My cup is full. I have drunk the cup of my Lord's love which fills me for all time… ‘Listen O King, go and survey the scene of destruction that has been caused by your army. Take a warning from those who have defeated others. He who is victorious today may suffer defeat tomorrow. Where are those kings who ruled here yesterday? Where are those games, those stables, those horses? Where are those bugles, those clarions? Where are those who buckled on their swords and were mighty in battle? Where are those scarlet uniforms? Where are those mirrors that reflected fair faces? Where are those houses, those mansions, those palaces? We see them no longer here. O Lord, this world is Thine. In one moment, Thou create, in another moment, Thou destroy Thy Creation.’ On hearing the words of the Guru, Babur remained in deep thought for a long time and then asked Guru Ji humbly ‘What can I, do for you?’ ‘Nothing,’ said the Guru ‘The soul supreme Being has Himself commissioned me to spread His message of Naam, and I enjoy His grace and gifts. Those who forsake Him and attach themselves to others lose all. He makes emperors and kings, and He turns them into dust.’ Babur bowed before Guru Ji and begged for counsel for a better life. ‘Be just to all, and never do injustice to anyone,’ said Guru Ji. ‘Never depart from the path of truth. Be merciful and forgive others as you would wish to be forgiven. Do not covert that which belongs to others. Do not sow the seeds of cruelty. He who is cruel, suffers.’ These words Babur took to heart and from then on endeavoured to be a just ruler. Due to Guru Ji's request Babur released 11,111 other prisoners.” 

We got back to the hotel and I was the emcee in Punjabi for our evening program. 

References for history 

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_khuhi_bhai_lalo.html#gallery[gallery1]/5/

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Khuhi_Bhai_Lalo

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_rori_sahib_eminabad.html

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Hamza_Gaus 

https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/gurudwaras-in-pakistan/gurudwara-rori-sahib-eminabad

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Rori_Sahib 

http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_ber_sahib_sialkot.html

https://www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Gurdwara_Chakki_Sahib